Stove installations are what I do! I’ll take your enquiry, do the survey and perform the work. I’ll keep you updated regularly along the way. I’ll ensure that you’re left satisfied and if you have a problem, I’ll resolve it in an amicable manner and fast. I’ve built my business up over time and rely on repeat business and recommendations for the majority of my work.

If you have a chimney, I’ll reline it with a flexible flue liner as it’s a safe and cost effective way of using the existing flue.

If you don’t have a chimney I’ll put one in using twin wall insulated flue. You can get this flue powder any colour you want! It will either run up through your house and exit through your roof, or it will run up the side of your house fixed and supported correctly en route.

If your fireplace is currently an open fire or a gas fire and you want to give it a facelift – I can do that too.

Need a hearth? Flue insulation? A new chimney pot? Ventilation? Let Blazing Burners sort it out for you. I’ll do a great job. I’m probably not the cheapest (because I do a good job) but I’m not the most expensive either (because I don’t have the overheads a big business has). I use what I believe to be, the best flue components and I take pride in what I do which means you’ll have a “belt and braces” safe and good looking installation! Your home will be respected and it will be left clean and tidy.

I can even supply 99% of every stove on the market and I’ll even suggest ways to “heat shield” the back of the stove if it sits next to a “combustible” wall/surface.

All of this and more information including costs and expected time frames are covered in more detail below.

 

 

From left to right:
An internal twin wall installation with new hearth
A wall mounted external twin wall flue installation
A flexible liner installation with an enlarged fireplace renovation including a granite lintel and hearth

 

 

How quickly can you perform a stove installation after performing the site survey?

Obviously this mostly depends on my lead times. My busiest time is pre-Christmas – everyone wants a stove for Christmas – so please don’t call a couple of weeks before Christmas and expect Santa to be coming down your new flue on the 25th!

Usually the biggest hold up is the stove. This can take a month to arrive if you are ordering a stove with special features or a crazy paint job! My sister company Perran Stoves can usually provide a stove within a week. If you have ordered it yourself from the internet and it states the delivery is next day you should call and speak to the company directly as they can be out of stock and haven’t updated their site. It has been known to happen! However when this happens, it usually frees up a day for us so there is normally a slot available every week or so.

That said, the two things that may delay your install are the wind and rain. If there is a big storm brewing and it’s howling we won’t get up the ladders. The rain only really affects our twin wall installations – we don’t want to put a hole in your living room or roof if it is lashing down with rain!

When I know a storm is coming in, I try and re-arrange my diary to do any inside work – remedial work, internal twin wall installations, so if you’re flexible your installation may occur faster than planned. I have been known to work through weekends – although I really try not to!

 

How many ways can you install a stove?

I install solid fuel appliances (wood- burners and multi fuel stoves). There are 3 types of installation I perform and are certified to do.

  1. A flexi installation: A stove is installed into an existing chimney – normally using a stainless steel flexible flue liner. Typically takes one day.
  2. An external twin wall installation: A stove with a new rigid stainless steel cylindrical flue going outside your house and up the external wall. May take 2 days.
  3. An internal twin wall installation: A stove with a new rigid stainless steel cylindrical flue going inside your house and coming out of your roof. May take 2-3 days.

I don’t install “wet systems” which involve boilers – as I’m not qualified as a plumber.

 

Flexible flue liner installation
A flexible flue liner installed in an existing flue, ready to be cut and cowled
Flexi liner at the pot
Damian fixing a section of flue pipe onto the adapter that connects the flexible flue liner
Connecting flue pipe to the liner

 

 

External twin wall installation
This flue pipe and twin wall flue components were painted with stove paint to match the stove
This flue pipe and twin wall flue components were painted with stove paint to match the stove
The chrome twin wall is supported with wall brackets to prevent any lateral movement
The chrome twin wall is supported with wall brackets to prevent any lateral movement

 

 

Internal twin wall installation
All components of the twin wall flue were painted with stove paint to match the stove. A bespoke log holder was fabricated and split face tiles were added to the wall
All components of the twin wall flue were painted with stove paint to match the stove. A bespoke log holder was fabricated and split face tiles were added to the wall
The twin wall flue was left in it's natural chrome finish. A bespoke lead flashing was made and a storm collar used to seal the flue against water
The twin wall flue was left in it’s natural chrome finish. A bespoke lead flashing was made and a storm collar used to seal the flue against water

 

 

I have a gas fire/open fire/back boiler: How do you install with these?

Gas fires: If you know that you are going with an install it is better for us if we can assess your flue on the site survey. This will mean that you will have to get a GasSafe engineer to disconnect your fire. You should also get the engineer to cap off the gas well away from the fire so that if remedial work is required this can be done safely without disturbing live gas pipes.

Open fires: These have firebacks which in all cases – except some inset style burners – will need to be removed for the installation of a stove. Some inset style burners are designed to fit into the fire recess without disturbing the fireback. It’s not always the case though as the lintel may be creating an obstacle. Once the fireback has been removed the original builders opening is exposed. This is typically 16” x 22”. There are several stoves that are designed to fit into a builders opening but the majority require a larger air gap to allow for safe combustion. Therefore remedial work to enlarge this opening is normally required. Your stove will now have a minimum air gap of about 4-6” either side of it and about 14” above it.

Back boilers: These were used in conjunction with an open fire to provide hot water in a house. This involves a tank which is usually to the side or behind the fire – which was heated by the fire. The tanks will need to be removed and the pipework disconnected. A plumber will be required to cap off the pipework so that we can drain the water from the tank without flooding your house!

 

 

An open fire conversation

 

An open fire – pre installation
The room is prepped, and clean dust sheets down.
Getting ready for the knockout and upgrade

 

 

The lintel has been inserted to support the new height and width
The internal fireplace is rendered, the hearth laid. All ready for the stove install and the plastering on the chimney breast
The internal fireplace is rendered, the hearth laid. All ready for the stove install and the plastering on the chimney breast

 

 

A saltfire ST2 multi-fuel stove all ready to go
Install complete – just needs plastering now

 

 

What is included in an install?

I supply and fit the entire flue system. Remedial work for fireplace renovations can also be included and detailed.

A carbon monoxide alarm, notice plate and certificate of compliance will also be included.

All of the labour costs are covered too.

Stove choices relevant to your needs and requirements will also be given and supplied if needed.

I will test, commission and explain the operation of your stove to you. I will also give you plenty of information about what fuel you should be using and will take time to answer any questions you have.

The estimate will state exactly what is included.

I also perform a chimney sweep prior to installing a liner as this is required by building regulations. Even if you have had the flue swept, I will still perform the sweep as I want to ensure the liner is free of any material and obstructions.

 

Performing a chimney sweep prior to installing the liner

 

Additional costs:

These are very seldom (for example 1 in 50 installs). As in most cases I am dealing with unforeseen circumstances and cannot predict the integrity of your building and typically – your flue – on the survey. Most commonly additional costs are accrued with a flexible liner installation. Very occasionally the liner will not fit due to a blockage. I will need to free up the blockage. If this takes more than an hour – this will be chargeable. Another example involves your chimney pot. If the pot is non existing or damaged, you will need a new one which is also chargeable. Again this is rare.

All additional costs are covered in detail in my terms and conditions.

 

Can I provide my own products for installation?

Only in exceptional circumstances.

I have very high standards and take my professionalism seriously. I like to know all my kit conforms to British Standards. I have experience in using a wide variety of installation materials and consequently know bad kit from good kit.
I have performed extensive research and believe that my installation materials are some of the best products on the market – for quality and ease of use. They come with big warranties. My flexi liners (DuraFlue) are considered the strongest and best on the market.

Once I have installed your burner, I don’t want to come back and inconvenience yourselves and myself with unnecessary services.

If you supply your own flue, there might not be enough of it for the installation. Even though I’m thorough on my survey and take plenty of  measurements to get the flue design right, I might need additional or alternative flue parts and components. I never know when that 900 adjustable bend, 150mm length or extra support is needed. I carry everything with me so that I don’t have to leave site.

 

I’ve got some freebies from the internet company I bought my stove from – can you use them?

Not likely. The stove pipe is different to the ones I use. Unless it’s an inglenook it’s rare that a 1m length will fit in a standard fireplace and I don’t like to cut pipes if I can help it. Even if it is the same diameter, it won’t fit my flue pipes. The colour will be slightly different too. I make our own bespoke “register plates” using slightly thinner metal (easier to cut and drill) because the “register plate” is actually a “closure plate” in a flexi system. I also carry a huge tub of our own great quality fire cement. In any case, I rarely use fire cement. I tend to seal my flue pipes with “envriograff” which is an expensive but quality, (resistant to) high temperature, flexible silicone. If you want to supply a CO alarm, I will only use it if it conforms to the relevant British Standards.

 

Do I need my chimney lined?

Your chimney works to safely remove the products of combustion from the fireplace. If this is not working effectively you may need it lining. This basically means lining the inside of your chimney with another chimney – or flue.

Your chimney is typically made from brick or stone or it may already be lined with clay liners. Mortar (cement/sand/lime) will inevitably be used to keep these products together and prevent collapse.

Fires produce dangerous waste products, some which contain acid (sulphur). The waste products can form condensates or tar such as creosote.

Hot air rises and the air from the stove carries these waste products. When hot air meets cold air (atmospheric air outside your house) the air cools and doesn’t rise as fast. Sometimes the hot air from your stove actually cools inside your chimney before it is expelled. This may be because the flue is too large and has a large volume of cold air already that needs to be heated in order for the air to rise. Consequently the waste products won’t be dispelled. Acid will corrode the mortar and the flue will become damaged.

Typically chimneys fail toward the top of the flue as the waste products tend to gather there.

A chimney can actually contain several flues. For example a single chimney between 2 houses that are 2 stories high may actually contain 8 flues – 4 from each house (2 fires downstairs and 2 fires upstairs). These flues are separated by dividers which are the bricks or stone. If the mortar fails then these dividers can also fail. Consequently your flue may become defective and may need lining.

The integrity of your chimney may be ascertained by performing a visual inspection and a smoke test. This in turn will determine whether you need your chimney lined.
Having your chimney lined improves safety as the diameter of the liner is less than the diameter of the existing flue. Consequently the volume of air in the liner is less than it was previously in the old flue hence the waste gasses will be expelled more efficiently.

 

Using my ladders to line a flue with a flexible liner

 

 

 

 

Flexible flue liner

Lining your chimney with a stainless steel flexible flue liner is probably the most affordable and popular way to line your chimney.

The liners are cylindrical in shape and are typically 6” in diameter although some are 5” in certain circumstances. They line the full length of the chimney in one continuous piece attaching to the stove pipe via an adapter. This ensures your flue is sealed from the stove at the bottom to the pot at the top.

The quality of these liners can vary. They can be manufactured in different ways and some are more durable than others. If looked after correctly they can last a long time.

 

DuraFlue Chimney Lining

I install using DuraFlue flexible stainless steel liners as we consider these liners to be the best on the market – they are tough, durable and well constructed. They endure the rigours of installation and continue to endure the rigours of use.

Click here for a youtube video on just how tough these liners are!

Duraflue liners have conditional warranties of 15 & 30 years – a testament to their quality (most liners only offer 10 and 20 years respectively). Once installed, I like to walk away knowing that my products are doing their job. The conditional warranty includes burning the correct fuels and having the flue swept regularly.

There are 2 different types of liner depending on the grade of stainless steel used – either 316L or 904L. 904L grade stainless steel has a higher nickel content which in turn offers a higher heat resistance. This liner is more expensive and has the longer warranty. It is recommended to use this liner when installing stoves that will smoulder overnight, and with multi-fuel burners as smokeless fuel combusts at a higher temperature to wood.

 

Dura Flue liner
Dura Flue Liner

 

 

Yep – That’s me

 

 

 

 

Flue insulation – why, when and how is this done?

The flue is designed to expel the waste products of combustion safely. Heat is required in this process because hot air rises. If your flue is subject to cold temperatures this process will be affected. This will occur if your chimney is exposed externally or if it has large voids:

If your chimney stack is free standing and has 3 or more of its sides exposed the outside weather will help keep your flue cold. Similarly if a liner is used to line a large voided flue this will also be subject to staying cold.

Consequently I would recommend that the liner is insulated. Insulating a liner helps it stay hot.

There are two methods which we use to insulate flues – either a backfill or a wrap.

The backfill is loose and made from small pieces and we pour it around the liner from the top. It will make its way down and eventually come to rest either surrounding the stove in an inset type installation, or on top of the closure plate in the chimney just above the stove. It will then backfill to the top of the pot completely surrounding the flue throughout its entire length. There are 2 products we use as a backfill – Leca and Vermiculite.

 

 Leca backfill

Leca - Loose insulation used to backfill around a liner
Leca – a product used to backfill the liner

 

Liner wrapping method

The other method is where we would wrap your flue in an insulating blanket. We choose to use this wrap method if the liner is sitting in a large voided chimney as you would require a huge amount of backfill to insulate the flue.

 

IMG_3957

IMG_3958

IMG_3959

 

 

 

 

Remedial work

In most instances your installation will require remedial work to firstly make your installation safe and secondly to make it look good.

I follow strict building regulations as stated in Approved Document J 2010 when performing installations. This ensures your installation is as safe as it can be. This means that every aspect of your installation has been given guidelines. These guidelines will state everything from the dimensions of your hearth to the materials we can and cannot use in the proximity of your installation. The remedial work involved may include removing and knocking out the existing fireplace, inserting a new lintel, rendering, plastering and laying a hearth. Other work may also be required such as fitting supports or flaunching a new pot on top of the stack. When I perform the site survey, the remedial work will be highlighted and your quote will state all remedial work required.

 

Before

After

Custom log store

 

 

Do you do all the work yourself?

Yes – I perform the installation and do all the remedial work myself. The only thing I don’t do is plaster so I get Mick to do that who is great! That way, the time span of your installation is kept to a minimum without waiting for various contractors to complete their work before the next team can organise a date to perform their work.

The only occasions I would involve other contractors is when I use scaffolding or a core drilling team. I very rarely use scaffolding and the site survey will determine whether we would need it.

A core drilling team is only used on the rare occasion that your wall is approximately 600mm thick, made of thick stone (granite) and I am performing an external twin wall installation. I can organise the contractors on your behalf if you wish. The cost for each service is approximately £400.00 which you will pay directly to the contractors.

 

Do you have insurance?

Yes – I have public liability insurance covering £2,000,000.

 

Do I have to employ you to do the remedial work?

Not at all. You could either employ another tradesperson such as a builder or plasterer or if competent you could attempt the work yourself. I would give advice to ensure the remedial work is compliant with building regulations and the guidelines outlined by the stove manufacturer – otherwise I could not sign off the installation and give the certificate of compliance.

 

What size hearth do I need?

Building regulations or the stove manufacturer will dictate the type and dimensions of your hearth. You may actually need two hearths depending on your stove.

Your hearth could be over 5” thick, be over a metre wide and nearly a metre deep.

Thickness: A constructional hearth which has a minimum depth of 5” may have to be used. However a superficial hearth is the standard hearth that will be required. This has a minimum depth of 12mm.

Width: The distance from the sides of the stove that the hearth will protrude varies and is dictated by the manufacturer. This is typically around 450mm at each side. So your hearth could be around 1.2 metres wide.

Depth: The distance from the front of the stove could be 225mm but the manufacturer may state it needs to be more such as 300mm or even more. There will also be a gap behind the stove to allow for air to circulate and provide adequate combustion. This gap can be anything from 50mm to 150mm.

The hearths are made from non-combustible material. Slate is a popular choice as it is cost effective. The thicker and larger the slate, the more expensive it becomes. You could choose to have one piece of slate that is over 30mm thick and cut to fit your fireplace but this may be expensive. The alternative is to have about 3 pieces of slate that are approximately 20mm thick that will make up your hearth. Having your hearth in separate pieces also allows for the hearth to move as it is exposed to the heat. Therefore it will expand and contract without cracking.

 

How long does an install take?

Each installation varies in duration.

  • A flexi installation is normally one day. The duration may be increased if we come across unforeseen problems. Sometimes the liner will not go down the flue because it is poorly designed or blocked (bird nests, dividers or feathers – bricks/stone – collapsing, etc.).
  • Remedial work such as knocking out, inserting a lintel and making good can take a couple of days.
  • Hearths may take anything from a couple of hours up to a day to lay.
  • Twin wall flues typically take between 1-3 days. Mostly depending on high it has to go, the supports required and whether the flue needs to be boxed in/meshed in.

 

How much mess will you make?

I always use lots of clean dust sheets and cover everything up and I like to leave the room better than when I first found it!

The amount of mess depends on the install. Internal twin walls don’t cause much mess. External twin walls involve drilling a hole through your wall so this does create lots of dust. Flexi liners can be relatively mess free; the messiest part is potentially the sweep but we control the soot fall with sheets; dropping the liner may also be messy but this is typically limited to the fireplace which is always well covered.

The messiest part of an install is knocking out/ enlarging the fire recess. Copious dust is created. That’s why I cover everything.

AND I also take all my rubble, metal, rubbish away. Your drive/garden/path is kept clean and if we work outside, we take the time to cover the surface where we work.

I like to keep everything orderly and tidy.

 

How much will it cost?

Each installation varies in cost. This is because the amount and type of flue and other components are never the same.

 

Hearths

Guide price: £50.00 – £300.00.

Hearths can be supplied and fitted for as little as £50.00 or as much as you want to spend.

A 30mm, bull-nosed, polished slate large corner hearth can be £300.00+.

 

Flexible flue lining install

Guide price: £1,000.00 – £1,100.00.

A 2 story flexible liner (suitable for wood burning) is normally between £1000.00 – £1100.00.

 

Twin wall installations

Guide price: £1,300.00 – £2,500.00.

Twin wall installations can be from of £1300.00 – £2500.00+ depending on it it’s a bungalow or house and whether the flue needs boxing in, powder coated black (or pink!) or additional supports are required.

 

Fireplace renovations

Guide price: £100.00 – £1,500.00.

Fireplace renovations can be as much as £1500.00 or as little as £100.00 depending what is required and how long it will take.

 

Other remedial work

Ventilation: You may require to have permanent open air ventilation fitted. If a simple louvre can be fitted on your floorboards, this may cost £5.00. If you need a through wall vent, this can be from £65.00 upwards depending on the thickness of your wall.

Chimney pot: I can supply and fit a new pot for £100.00.

 

 

Each installation will be different depending on:

  • The amount and type of black vitreous enamel pipe
  • The amount and variety of flexible liner
  • The amount and type of twin wall flue and supporting components
  • The height of the twin wall flue is determined by building regulations and differs for each house.
  • Remedial work required
  • A hearth supplied and fitted
  • The duration (may take anything from 1-4 days)

I’ll be able to give you an accurate ball park figure by talking to you and asking some questions (maybe with some picture requests).

For a free estimate please get in touch to arrange a free site survey.

 

Do I need to do anything before an install?

I ask for a 50% deposit to help cover the cost of materials.

I’d expect you to have informed your neighbours and gained their consent. If you share a wall with your neighbour you should inform them as per the “party wall act” (you can download an example letter to edit yourself).

I cover the room with dustsheets but I’d want you to clear the room pre-install. Take all the pictures down, remove all ornaments and roll up the rug. I send a file stating all this prior to your installation.

If possible remove the electrical equipment – TV etc.

You can choose to leave the sofas in if you want as we can cover these.

I’d need space for parking a big red or even bigger white chimney machine close to the house as possible. I carry a lot of equipment.

I need space to work in. Please give me access to the room so that I can bring my tool-boxes in easily and make sure there is space around the fireplace for me and my guy, and all of our equipment.